The Legacy of the Rolex Kermit: A Green Bezel That Changed a Classic

The Rolex Submariner stands as one of the most recognized icons in Swiss watchmaking. Renowned for its design, functionality, and enduring presence across decades, the Submariner has seen many iterations. Yet, one reference stands out for changing the tone—literally and figuratively. Introduced in 2003 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610LV, nicknamed the “Kermit,” brought a vibrant green aluminum bezel insert to a model long associated with monochromatic strength. This bold change bridged Rolex’s storied past with a willingness to adapt, establishing the Kermit as one of the most sought-after and debated dive watches in modern horology.

The Historical Context of the Rolex Submariner

Before the Kermit, the Submariner had remained relatively constant in its aesthetic since its debut in 1953. The collection was developed as a tool watch, originally marketed to divers before finding a much wider appeal. Crafted with robust waterproofing (later certified with 300 meters of water resistance), luminescent hour markers, and the rotating bezel as a core timing feature, the Submariner quickly became synonymous with durability and legibility under pressure. Over the decades, Rolex refined the movement, case architecture, and materials, yet retained a largely functional design ethos, mainly in black and steel combinations. This consistency built loyalty. Models such as the Ref. 5513, 1680, and 16610 became touchpoints for collectors and enthusiasts who prized endurance over stylistic deviation.

The Introduction of the Kermit: A Radical Turn

In 2003, Rolex marked the golden jubilee of the Submariner with a new version of its classic tool watch— the Ref. 16610LV, where “LV” stood for “Lunette Verte,” French for “green bezel.” The introduction of the green aluminum bezel was, by Rolex standards, a startling departure. While green is Rolex’s corporate color, it had never been used so boldly on such a historically conservative model. Internally, Rolex maintained most of the familiar mechanisms— the watch featured the reliable Caliber 3135 automatic movement. The standout features were the green bezel and the accompanying “Maxi dial,” characterized by larger hour indices and widened hands. Together, these elements subtly enhanced legibility, functionality, and yes, aesthetics.

Design-wise, the Kermit retained the classic Oystersteel 40mm case, fitted with the Oyster bracelet secured by a folding clasp. But that green bezel—intended as a commemorative accent—became an aesthetic dividing line. Some praised it as refreshingly modern; others lamented what they saw as a tampering with heritage. Either way, the Kermit established its presence, redefining what a Submariner could look like. Rolex, reserved as ever in its design risks, allowed the model to remain in production until 2010, suggesting an implicit endorsement of its reception.

Technical Foundations of the Ref. 16610LV

Beneath the unusual styling choice of the green bezel lay the hallmark of Rolex precision and engineering: the Caliber 3135. This in-house automatic movement had proven itself across decades, offering a 48-hour power reserve and utilizing a balance bridge and Breguet overcoil for enhanced shock resistance and timekeeping consistency. The movement was COSC-certified, ensuring chronometric accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day—a standard that Rolex would later tighten further. With a unidirectional 120-click bezel and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, the Kermit preserved the professional-grade utility expected of the Submariner lineage. Water-resistant up to 300 meters, the reference held true to its tool-watch origins despite its lively appearance.

Importantly, reference to the Kermit can sometimes cause confusion in the collector community. It is essential to distinguish the 16610LV’s aluminum bezel from its spiritual successor introduced in 2020: the 126610LV, nicknamed the “Cermit” or “Starbucks,” which employs a vibrant green ceramic bezel inset, paired once again with a classic black dial. While the ceramic bezel is more durable and resistant to fading, purists often prefer the warmth and character of the aluminum bezel found on the original 16610LV.

Market Impact and Collectibility

From the moment of its release, the Kermit became a polarizing watch—but one that spurred curiosity and eventually, demand. Its production span between 2003 and 2010 was relatively short for a Submariner model, resulting in a finite global circulation. This, combined with its commemorative intention and distinctive aesthetic, propelled it into collector conversations quickly. Early production models from 2003, often labelled “Flat 4” versions—so named because of the shape of the number 4 on the bezel insert—command a notable premium today. Minor differences like this have elevated the 16610LV to a level of serious scrutiny and desirability in the secondary market.

Its resale value has steadily risen, aided by Rolex’s strategic decision not to overproduce or extend its run unnecessarily. In the broader context of sports model economics, the Kermit’s value trajectory mirrors that of other significant Rolex references: a standard performance for a tool watch enhanced by color, rarity, and historical significance. For many collectors, the Kermit represents both a nod to tradition and a pioneering pivot for Rolex’s design ethos. It occupies a middle ground—between the understated elegance of earlier Subs and the bold modernization pursued in the later ceramic references.

The Rolex Kermit vs. Hulk and Starbucks

The modern Rolex green Submariner timeline includes three key references: the Kermit (16610LV), the Hulk (116610LV), and the Starbucks (126610LV). Introduced in 2010, the Hulk went further into uncharted territory, marrying a green Cerachrom bezel with a matching green dial and Super Case dimensions—thicker lugs and crown guards. The effect was aggressive, vibrant, and controversial. The Starbucks, arriving in 2020, marked a return to a black dial seen in the Kermit, but retained the ceramic bezel and newer 3235 movement with extended 70-hour power reserve. These evolutionary steps are crucial in understanding how Rolex monitors and selectively responds to market sentiment without ever losing narrative control.

Each of these green Submariners balances the boundaries of form and function. There’s a certain heritage allegiance in the Kermit; a high-concept audacity in the Hulk; and a carefully measured advancement in the Starbucks. The green Submariner conversation, always orbiting around this triad, continues to ignite animated debate among aficionados about which execution best captures the spirit of the Submariner line.

Lasting Appeal of the Kermit in Modern Horology

The Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16610LV, affectionately called the Kermit, represents a decisive moment in Rolex’s enduring narrative. Not merely a colorful variant, it exemplifies Rolex’s capacity for calculated risk within a disciplined design tradition. Infused with the mechanical reliability expected of a Swiss marque and overlaid with playful, symbolic flair, the Kermit captivated a new generation of collectors while challenging old assumptions of what a dive watch must look like.

Its present-day resonance owes as much to its visual uniqueness as it does to its limited production run, precise movement, and foundational role in evolving the Submariner family. In the context of the Swiss watch industry, the Kermit reflects the kind of silent yet irrevocable design turn that reverberates for decades. As Rolex continues to balance innovation with heritage, the Kermit remains a benchmark—green, bold, and indisputably classic.